Gastronomy At High Altitude: The Distinctive Local Flavor Of South Tyrol

For local chef Manuel Ebner, the ins and outs of South Tyrolean agriculture are second nature. In spring 2020, the two Gault & Millau hat-awarded chef opened his restaurant 1524 as part of the guest house Ansitz Rungghof in the commune of Eppan an der Weinstraße, not far from the South Tyrolean capital of Bolzano. Eber has a deep respect for the traditional Austro-German influences on South Tyrolean cuisine, yet he often looks southwards to Italy in seeking new ways to interpret them.

“I want to bring the past into the future, as intact as possible.”“My cooking has two main references: mountains and sea,” he says. “I often take rustic products and combine with produce from the south: whether that’s different types of algae, fish together with Speck, or Graukäse [grey cheese, a sharply-flavored, acid-curdled cheese from hay-fed cows] with smoked eel.” In addition to making the most of local products, preserving and reviving traditional food preparation techniques is equally central to the chef’s approach. “I want to respect the hundreds of years of history in the region, and hold onto methods of preparation that might be at risk of being forgotten,” he explains. “I want to bring the past into the future, as intact as possible.”

The great diversity of growing opportunities afforded by the region’s geographical coordinates and climate afford chefs and cultivators the advantage of year-round harvest. “High altitude offers many cultivation possibilities,” Ebner explains of his gardening strategy, noting that he has divided his garden into several different regions, each with its own specific conditions. “Every plant requires its own habitat, and its own soil—ranging from rocky ground to the sandy soil typical of wild coastlines.” His fruit orchard, for example, encompasses different types of cherry, apple and plum trees planted in the traditional “old-world” style of mixed permaculture that extends a staggered harvest time from late June through October.

“Every season has its own advantages that I never want to miss”When planning his menus, Ebner is guided by the seasons—what’s growing naturally around him at any given time. “Every season has its own advantages that I never want to miss,” he says. “If something’s ready for harvest, I can pick it at exactly the right time.” Intuition and inspiration, too, play a leading role: “Colors influence me greatly, and often inform the foundation of a dish.” In spring, green naturally takes center stage. Ebner waxes lyrical about its offerings: “New shoots, wild and new vegetables—everything begins to grow. We often go into the surrounding forest, and the huge meadow that backs on to the hotel grounds to pluck sprouts, wild flowers, and hop shoots,” he says. “We build dishes on this basis, then add meat or fish later on.”